Embroidery on linen was a popular pastime for both men and women in the upper classes and the patterns were often chosen to resemble silk fabric. Dress à la polonaise, outer fabric embroidered linen, lining linen, KM Photo Pernilla Rasmussen
Philadelphia Museum of Art - Collections Object : Portrait of a Lady. Peacocks on her headband, Greek Key design embroidered on smock neckline. Attributed to Martin Schaffner, German (active Ulm), - 1549
I think this is a kirtle rather than a chemise revealed when she pulls off the overgrown, the fabric underneath is really beautiful! A woman undressing before entering the fountain of youth. From a fresco, circa in the great hall of the Castello di Manta.